Crete has two airports: Chania and Heraklion. For the dream beaches you need to head west, but if you're looking for a wilder side of Crete you need to be in the east … in other words, Heraklion airport.
We planned a one-week trip to the east of Crete, which eventually turned into 12 days. Once you're there, there's simply so much beauty to see that you can't bring yourself to go home.
Here is our must-do selection
Vai beach
The jewel among European beaches. And we thought we had already seen the most beautiful beaches in Europe.
Vai beach actually lies in a gigantic palm forest that stretches out long before you reach the beach. One main road leads there, past pretty villages and even a beautiful monastery (Toplou Monastery) that you can visit for a small fee.
Before you reach the beach you pass all sorts of lovely off-road tracks through the palm trees, with pretty streams running between them. It reminded me of the Ziz Valley in Morocco. Definitely worth driving around there a bit in a 4×4. We rented one from Elounda Happytravel.
At the beach itself things are a bit more organised. It's a dead-end road that ends with a car park on the right and the beach on the left. You're immediately assigned a zone and you pay for your ticket straight away. The beach is more or less divided into two parts. On one side you have the high rocks with the typical Instagram viewpoint and the landscaped beach. On the other side you have the river flowing into the sea and the wilder part of the beach.
We loved it in the forest: ideal for playing, building dens, and the sea is really close by.
For the 80s generation … this is, by the way, the beach where the iconic Bounty advert was filmed.
Chrissi Island
From the Bounty-advert beach to a Bounty island. Chrissi Island is one of the most southerly places in Europe and at the same time you'd swear you were on a paradise island in the Caribbean.
Uninhabited, brilliant white powdery sand, and the clearest, most intensely blue water. It looked just like a swimming pool.
To visit Chrissi Island you book one of the day trips by boat or simply take the ferry from Ierapetra.
Do come prepared: there are normally a few stalls on the island where you can buy food and drinks, but they're not always open. In high season you're usually fine, but outside the summer months it's best to check in advance. There are supermarkets in Ierapetra where you can stock up, and otherwise you have one last chance on the boat.
The island itself is uninhabited and small enough to walk all the way around. Directly opposite the harbour where you arrive is 'the Golden Beach'. There's nothing golden about it, but it would certainly win gold in the contest for the most beautiful beaches.
A gorgeous beach, but it can sometimes catch an enormous amount of wind. The beach where you arrive by boat is less paradise-like, but a lot less windy.
Don't mind the heat? Then feel free to walk through the Lebanon cedars to the lighthouse, the little church and the Roman remains. You can also discover other beaches where you'll have the place virtually to yourself.
Richtis Gorge
The west has the famous Samaria Gorge, but the east has the Richtis Gorge, which is certainly no less impressive.
A gentle turquoise stream flows through a stunning valley that ends in a few small waterfalls. But it's not just the valley that's magnificent; the mountains around it are breathtaking too. At the end of the gorge you come out onto a stunning wild beach.
The Richtis Gorge is a tough canyon to visit. You don't arrive in a village at the end like you do with the Samaria Gorge. It's 'wilder'. So you also have to walk all the way back up.
You can choose to do this along a dirt track in the sun or by taking the same route back again.
An alternative to this strenuous hike is to drive along the narrow dirt track to the beach, where there's a small car park. From there it's a 15-minute walk to the gorge and you've seen the most beautiful part. Really, this road is only recommended with an experienced guide and suitable transport, for example with Crete Experience Safari.
If you do decide to go it alone, make sure you have a proper 4×4.
Knossos
The historical highlight of eastern Crete is, of course, Knossos. We usually prefer to spend our time in nature rather than at sites like this, but Knossos really shouldn't be missed.
We were pleasantly surprised to find that the archaeological site isn't right in the middle of the busy city bustle, but a little outside it.
As soon as you walk into the site you feel yourself being pulled back into completely different times. Not only is the site beautiful, so is the nature around it. After a visit you can also relax wonderfully on one of the lovely terraces in the street.
On the advice of Pavlos, PR manager at Elounda Residence (where we stayed), we visited the museum afterwards. A very good tip, as it immediately gave more depth to the site we had visited.
Azorias and the Cretan Olive Tree
A very weighty title, but it deserves one. A corner of the Lasithi plateau where history is simply there to be admired without meeting another soul.
You reach the oldest olive tree in Crete via yet another dirt track (yes, for anyone wanting the more unusual adventures, a 4×4 is not a luxury). Over the years this mighty tree has suffered a great deal and a fence has been put around it for safety. I'd say … respect it too.
For the hungry ones among us … right next to the tree there are also a bitter AND a sweet almond tree. The children really enjoyed smelling AND tasting the difference.
A little deeper into the mountains you come to a path that leads to the historic town of Azorias. For a tourist it takes a bit of searching, but Google points you in the right direction fairly accurately. Do make the effort to really 'get inside', because the view over the island and the sea is out of this world.
On the way up to the mountaintop where Azorias lies you'll see lots of carob trees; their pods are edible and taste a little like chocolate.
We haven't visited it ourselves yet, but the Havgas Gorge is also in this corner and is said to be particularly beautiful.
Bioaroma:
Crete has been known for centuries for its healthy way of life: the healthy diet with very little lean meat, lots of vegetables and whole grains and pure fish. There is good, clean air and everywhere you can smell the herbs and flowers that grow there.
The slightly older inhabitants of Crete all know about the herbs and the wild vegetables you can find.
Bioaroma was started on that principle. From the wealth of herbs and flowers you find in Crete.
It's a small factory where natural skincare products are made.
I went there with my two daughters to create a bespoke perfume. A wonderful experience in which we learned a lot about scents, how perfumes are built up, and also how natural fragrances are extracted. As a bonus we went home with a heavenly perfume.
Amazonas
Up in the mountains lies a small, unique zoo. When you arrive you have a wonderful view over the valley on one side and a tropical oasis on the other.
Amazonas is a lovely park with tropical plants and parrots, with a tropical terrace at its heart with hammocks and tasty drinks.
At set times a ranger takes you to the monkey houses. You walk through them as a group. You're allowed to feed the monkeys and let them sit on your shoulder. Very exciting for children, but for adults too.
Careful! Never look a monkey straight in the eye and don't try to touch them. They see this as aggressive.
We love nature, so my selection is mainly based on that. Of course there is much more to experience in Crete. For those who, like us, are happiest in nature: definitely rent a 4×4, because the dirt tracks are your best friend.
You'll find a wide selection of different vehicles at Elounda Happy Travel. They're also happy to advise you on excursions and will find you the best deals.
