Nieuwpoort … the pearl for anyone looking for charm and authenticity!
‘The Belgian coast? I’d rather stay away!’ ‘Pfff, all those high-rise blocks along our coast …’ ‘I just want to walk through the dunes, not along the pier’
I’ve heard those prejudices so often … but Nieuwpoort surprised us in the best possible way.
As a student I once did a placement in Oostduinkerke and I vividly remember the beautiful stretch of dunes. I also regularly saw lovely photos from my neighbour, who keeps a boat in Nieuwpoort. Despite plenty of prejudices, I managed to convince my husband to head down to the coast for once.
I booked the Ibis Styles, just outside Nieuwpoort, because of its lovely playground, BBQ and picnic facilities and the swimming pool. Parking on site and within walking distance of Nieuwpoort.
The wartime past
Nieuwpoort lies right in the heart of what we call the Westhoek, a region that played a hugely important role in our modern wartime history. So there are still plenty of remnants to be found here.
Although you could spend daaays here learning more about the world wars (the first one in particular), the strategies and looking at what remains, we decided to settle on the Westfront museum, the Ganzenpoot and the Dodengang (Trench of Death). Both are only a few minutes from the Ibis hotel and have a very child-friendly offering.
The Dodengang
There are binoculars for scanning the sky for the many different birds.
Before you walk into the Dodengang there is a small interactive museum.
The whole visit takes about 2 hours
ENTRY: 5 eur per adult, 3 eur per child from age 6
Westfront museum
For us and our children a real ‘must-do’ … it is a varied museum full of good explanations about exactly what happened during the flooding of the polders. There are eyewitness accounts and even lots of visual installations that explain the whole strategy and tactics behind the flooding as clearly as possible.
For children there was a special booklet with a treasure hunt. Once they have filled in the whole booklet, they know very well what happened and how.
After the hunt you can also take the lift (or the stairs) to the top of the King Albert monument. Pretty cool view.
ENTRY: Family ticket 19 eur, Adults 7 eur, Children from age 7 5 eur
BOOKING REQUIRED DURING CORONA
The Ganzenpoot
An extensive lock complex bordering the town of Nieuwpoort. It consists of 6 hydraulic engineering structures arranged in the shape of a half moon or goose foot (ganzenpoot).
This place was originally of key importance during the flooding of the polders.
Especially if your children have never seen locks before, it is a fun place to stroll past. Certainly on the way to the King Albert monument and the Westfront Museum.
Other options for the “dark tourist”:
MONUMENTS
– Ijzertoren
– Menenpoort (Menin Gate)
– French Monument and Mass Grave Kemmelberg
– Canadian Monument
– Guynemer Monument and Pavilion
– Memorial Bloemen tegen het Vergeten (Flowers against Forgetting)
MUSEUMS
– In Flanders Fields Museum
– Museum aan de Ijzer
– Memorial Passchendaele 1917
– Käthe Kolwitz Museum
– Hooge Crater Museum
– Talbot House
– Lange Max Museum
– Belevingscentrum Vrij Vaderland
CEMETERIES (most impressive)
– Tyne Cot Cemetry
– German Military Cemetery Vladslo
– German Military Cemetery Langemark
– Hooge Crater Cemetry
WAR SITES
– Hill 60
– Bayrenwald
– Vredesmolen (Peace Mill)
– Pool of Peace
– Irish Peace Park
– Hill 62
– Frontzate
– Yorkshire Trench and dug-out
– Lettenberg bunkers
– Ypres Salient
– Lange Max gun emplacement
– Death Cells and Execution Site Poperinge
– Onze Lieve Vrouwhoekje
– Chinese memorial site
– Site 3 Grachten
– Military field kitchen Gapaard
Unspoilt nature:
There is plenty on offer for those seeking peace and quiet and nature lovers too. There is lots of greenery to see in Nieuwpoort itself, and the dunes around Nieuwpoort and Oostduinkerke are simply stunning.
We did two long walks. One from Nieuwpoort through the Ijzermonding (the Yser estuary) to the beach. And another in Ter Yde, a piece of wild nature bordering the beach of Oost-Duinkerke.
The Ijzermonding
The Ijzermonding was an easy walk that came out on the (undeveloped) beach of Nieuwpoort.
The path is ideal for buggies, though do keep muddy patches in mind.
We really loved the various birdwatching spots. Thanks to those large stretches of nature that are completely closed off to visitors, you really see an enormous amount of ‘wildlife’.
At the end of the path you reach the dunes with the well-known lighthouse and the stairs that give access to the undeveloped beach.
Here too, part of it is closed off to give the seals the peace to lie on the beach without people coming too close.
Normally you can also take a ferry just before the beach that brings you from the Ijzermonding to Nieuwpoort-Bad. Check their online timetable to see when they sail.
Timetable IJzermonding ferry service
We easily spent 2 hours on the beach in bitter cold and wind. If the weather is nice, it is definitely a good idea to bring a picnic and a blanket or beach towel.
Ter Yde
Ter Yde is a different story. It is truly wild natural beauty, not suitable for buggies or people with reduced mobility. Maybe it was us as well. We got completely lost and are still grateful to the kind local walker who took us under her wing through the pouring rain.
That said … even in dreadful weather it is an incredibly beautiful piece of nature. Cows and horses roam freely on some of the paths and many parts of the nature reserve are not accessible to people.
The path is very clearly marked, but alongside it you see all sorts of little tracks running straight through the dunes. Naturally, those were the tracks we got lost on. The other side of the coin, of course, is that this way we saw a great deal we would otherwise never have seen.
The nature reserve is actually split into two parts by a busy road. If you just want some nice photos and to romp through the dunes with your children, you can perfectly well stick to the beach side. The sea is right there and you have the beauty of the dunes too. We even found wartime remains there.
The beach of Oostduinkerke is also very beautiful and natural. It is also the place where you can watch the shrimp fishermen at work. To find an update on when the fishermen head out, you can always check their Facebook page. Sometimes you can even ride along in the covered wagon.
For the wilder, more natural experience, choose the side that lies away from the sea and ends in a forest. That is where you see the free-roaming horses and cows.
Although there are even more nature reserves, and you will find lots of nature in the immediate surroundings of Ibis Styles Nieuwpoort, this was enough for us. We were only in Nieuwpoort for a weekend and these are two areas where you can walk very pleasantly.
Cultural and culinary
When it comes to culture and good food, Nieuwpoort has plenty to offer too. Of course there is the historical side, but you can just as easily come across all sorts of beautiful things in terms of art.
We went looking for the Beaufort installations in Nieuwpoort-Bad and on the beach. Not that it was difficult, as you can see them from miles away. Here are the three works you can find in Nieuwpoort:
- Op zoek naar Utopia (In search of Utopia).
- Le vent qui souffle où il vent
- Men
I’m leaving out the locations for now because they will be moved in the coming period. Best to have a look at the website of Beaufort 21.
We also had a little wander around the town of Nieuwpoort itself. You will find an old tower, the ‘bommenvrij’ (bomb-proof shelter, which is not bomb-proof at all), the town square with its belfry … BUT the nicest part is the area around the fish auction. There are lots of little restaurants, fishmongers and of course the fish auction/market itself.
We walked along the water to Nieuwpoort Bad and that was great fun. You pass boats, but also another lock, various odd artefacts that were instantly turned into playground equipment and a park full of fitness apparatus. With a bit of luck you will also spot seals lying in the harbour.
Cultural and culinary
Since eating OUT still wasn’t allowed, we opted for takeaway. Even for take-away there was a huge amount of choice.
One evening we ate Thai. They put together a heavenly little vegan buffet for us. You could taste that it was really freshly cooked. The food was bursting with flavour.
The next day we indulged in a fish stew from De Roos. Apparently the best fish stew in Belgium.
And on the last day we ate leftovers.
At Ibis Styles it is no problem at all to heat up takeaway meals or even pop them in the oven. They even provide crockery and cutlery. And you can order snacks there too.
Culture on a rainy day
At the hotel they told us that a trip to Ostend is also very doable. Ideal, then, for doing the family treasure hunt in the Ensor museum.
What a success that was! In the museum the children get a booklet and a pack of crayons to fill in their booklets. If they do it right, they find a code and get a prize (spoiler alert: a mask).
There is also a playful audio guide that leads you through the museum.
The museum itself is also very nicely put together, with lots of games and interactive ways to learn about Ensor’s works.
Afterwards you can also do the Ensor walk. Via an app on your phone, it takes you past all the places that mattered during the life of J Ensor. Fill in this booklet and you get another prize. This walk is included in the price of your museum ticket, but you can also buy the app separately.
Despite the stormy weather it was a thoroughly successful weekend in Nieuwpoort. We enjoyed delicious food, bright sunshine, pouring rain, dips in the pool, beautiful art and unspoilt nature, but also learned more about our ‘national history’.
We will definitely be back … if only to enjoy the lovely food and the beautiful beaches of Nieuwpoort.
With special thanks to Ibis Styles Nieuwpoort for the lovely stay.
